Since 2003, when I first discovered Mongolia, the dining scene in Ulan Bator has been utterly transformed. I remember back then the most popular restaurant among Mongols was Khan Brau, a German brewery, which later became a cashmere shop just across from the National Theatre. Today, restaurants rivaling one another in quality are opening every year. Here is my selection—purely subjective—of the 10 best restaurants in Ulan Bator.

La Véranda

Oh, the countless memorable lunches I've enjoyed over rosé on the terrace of La Véranda. La Véranda has offered consistent quality and affordable prices for many years now. The setting, one of its greatest strengths, is cosy and comfortable without ever being pretentious. Comfortably seated on multicolored sofas or on the terrace overlooking Choijin Lama, you'll enjoy a menu with Mediterranean touches. From large shared bowls of composed salads to antipasti, pasta dishes and succulent pizzas (the one with anchovies and breaded eggplant is my favorite), the card offers plenty of choice. If you're after a steak, La Véranda is the one to choose among all those available. Be sure also to try the osso buco, pork piccata or salmon.

How to get there: La Véranda is located to the right of Choijin Lama monastery, or behind the Blue Sky tower. There are 2 restaurants in the building: the Silk Road on the ground floor and La Véranda upstairs. Price range: dishes between 7 and 12 euros Specialties: Italian, Mediterranean Reservation recommended, especially in summer.

Namaste

As its name suggests, Namaste offers Indian specialties. Ulan Bator has many Indian restaurants. Namaste, the latest arrival, quickly carved out a prime spot in the capital's culinary landscape, and rightly so. Beautiful traditional Indian décor, and above all, quality North Indian cuisine, which you can request spiced or mild. The chicken tandoori is truly succulent, as are the various curries. The ghost palak, lamb spinach curry, is surely my favorite dish here, accompanied by garlic naan and a mango lassi.

How to get there: Namaste is located on Baga Toiruu. If you're staying at the Guide Hotel, you simply need to cross the avenue. Otherwise, it's on the north/east corner of Baga Toiruu. Price range: around 7-8 euros, but you need to add rice and naans. Be aware, the portions are very generous, and 2 dishes for 3 people are enough. You can take leftovers away. Specialties: Indian

Bluefin, Cuisine d'Art

Bluefin has opened two establishments in Ulan Bator: Bluefin Steakhouse near the Kempinski Hotel to the east of the city, and Bluefin Cuisine d'Art in the city center, just opposite Genghis Khan Square. Let's focus on the central establishment, which offers international specialties in a sophisticated setting. Here the cuisine is rather fusion, with a strong emphasis on seafood, particularly in delicious starters of mussels, shrimp or squid. On the main courses, some meat dishes featuring beef imported from Australia, ragouts and fish, but especially many sushi and California rolls. In the evening, a few musicians play jazz tunes, and the atmosphere is pleasant.

How to get there: The restaurant is located just next to the National Library, opposite Genghis Khan Square and the post office Price range: around 8-12 euros, but you need to add rice and naans. Be aware, the portions are very generous, and 2 dishes for 3 people are enough. You can take leftovers away Specialties: seafood, international

Rosewood

Rosewood also has 2 locations around town: the first is a bit difficult to find behind maternity number 1, while the other is located downtown on Seoul Street. This latter is the preferred meeting place for expats who come here for lunch. Here the food is fresh, and the owner grows his own herbs (ah, the basil!) and works with local farmers. On the menu, small but excellent pizzas, panini and other sandwiches, as well as daily specials and an antipasti list. My favorite dish is the fried squid with basil, with its little potatoes.

How to get there: From the State Department Store, head toward the circus and turn immediately left onto Seoul Street. It's located 50 meters further on, on your left opposite the Russian Embassy Price range: around 8-10 euros Specialties: Italian, sandwiches, international

Casablanca

Casablanca shouldn't appear on any list of the capital's best restaurants, and is in fact better known as a bar than as a restaurant. And yet, the Asian-inspired food is delicious, prepared by a chef from Indonesia. I go there to eat an excellent beef rendang, but their lamb curry and other Asian soups are equally exquisite. In short, if you're looking for a place to have a drink with friends while having the option to eat, Casablanca is an excellent choice.

How to get there: Casablanca is located at the Bayangol Hotel, south from the central square, heading toward Peace Bridge Price range: around 8-10 euros Specialties: Asian, international

Mexikhan

Mexikhan is one of the newcomers on Ulan Bator's culinary scene, and as its name indicates, offers excellent Mexican specialties. In summer, a large terrace allows you to eat outdoors. Among the dishes are great classics of Mexican cuisine: fajitas, burritos and chili con carne. Among my favorite dishes are the stuffed peppers. Save a little room for dessert and indulge in hot chocolate fondue with churros... sinful, but oh so good!

How to get there: Mexikhan is located in the Regency, a residence located southeast of Genghis Khan Square, on Embassy Street. Price range: around 10-12 euros Specialties: Mexican

Seoul

Attention, an institution! Seoul Restaurant is a very large restaurant located near the Tumen Ekh Performance Hall. Ideal for group meals, it's a classic when it comes to organizing wedding receptions. The restaurant has no fewer than 4 menus: Korean, Chinese, Japanese and Western, and surprisingly, everything appears to be of excellent quality (and I've done plenty of testing!). The Gyozas are fabulous, the sushi excellent, and there's this seafood soup that invariably reminds me of spicy bouillabaisse. If everyone in your group wants something different, think Seoul—everyone should find something to their liking.

How to get there: From Genghis Khan Square, take the southbound road toward Peace Bridge. Just before the bridge, turn left. Right away on your left you'll see a large arch. Pass under it, and Seoul is that large building in front of you. Price range: around 10-15 euros Specialties: Korean, Chinese, Japanese, Western

Triskell

Fancy a good Breton crêpe in Mongolia? It's possible thanks to Yannick, the Breton who opened Triskell in 2011. It's also become, like the neighboring bistro, a favorite haunt of the English-speaking community, and if you're alone on a Friday evening, there'll always be people around to chat, share a beer and of course eat something, and that's just as well because the food here is also excellent. You'll have a choice between traditional Breton crêpes (with andouille sausage, yum) and meats from the grill. After 3 days on the steppe, a rare rib-eye steak with blue cheese sauce, ratatouille and fries really does hit the spot.

How to get there: Triskell is located just north of Genghis Khan Square. From the north/east corner of the square, head up the avenue for about a hundred meters, and you'll see the restaurant on your left, just after the bistro. Price range: around 10-15 euros Specialties: Breton, Grill

Mongolians

Ah Mongolians, the Mongolian restaurant that reconciles all foreigners with the country's food, and above all, a very beautiful traditional setting, with a reconstructed ger and traditional garb—you're almost in a museum. The food is therefore Mongolian, and all the specialties are available. Some, like boiled sheep's head or Bodog, need to be ordered in advance, but you'll still have a very wide choice on site. Mongols love it; the restaurant is far less touristy than Modern Nomad, and for travelers, it's the ideal place to ease into Mongolian gastronomy.

How to get there: That's the trouble—it's not central. To get to Mongolians you'll need to take a taxi. It's located north of the Chinggis Khaan Hotel on Ikh Toiruu. Price range: around 8-12 euros Specialties: Mongolian

Sakura

And finally, the small intimate canteen Sakura. Sakura is just 9 tables in a tiny space, and you need to come either before noon or after 2 PM if you want any hope of not waiting your turn. The food is affordable family Japanese cuisine with good curries and soups, and above all, excellent pastries (ah, the choux à la crème!). Needless to say, it's the lunch break meeting place for many people working in the area.

How to get there: On Beatles Street. From the State Department Store, head down the avenue going south, and it's the last restaurant on your left before reaching Seoul Street. Price range: around 4-6 euros.

This list is purely subjective and reflects only my opinions. I had to pick 10, and I've left many out along the way. Let's note Hazara and Delhi Darbar, the 2 other quality Indian restaurants in Ulan Bator, a multitude of small Korean places that delight me for lunch, the upscale restaurants in the Blue Sky Tower or Buddhavista at Zaisan. Let's be clear: Ulan Bator may not yet be Asia's gastronomic capital, but the dining scene is improving all the time, and that's truly good news!

Sylvain