On Horseback Among Reindeer Herders

Transfer to Ulan Bator airport and flight to Mörön, the capital of Khövsgöl province, where your driver awaits you.

This morning marks the departure of your equestrian adventure in Mongolia, a horseback ride of nine days in complete autonomy across the Khövsgöl region. Without logistical vehicle, your personal belongings and equipment are transported on pack horses, according to local nomadic traditions.

You head towards Jankhay for this first day on horseback. The morning is marked by discovery and serenity: you cross vast meadows dotted with multicoloured flowers, before venturing into a larch forest. Along your way, it is not uncommon to spot a herd of horses grazing peacefully in the shade of the trees, an emblematic image of rural Mongolia. At the end of the day, you begin your descent towards Lake Khövsgöl, whose reflections you can see through the tree trunks. After crossing a rocky path, you reach your evening campsite, set up in a small, calm and verdant clearing; your first bivouac in the heart of unspoiled nature.

The day begins with crossing a marshy area, where your mount progresses at the tranquil pace of the surrounding nature. This stage offers the opportunity to appreciate the diversity of Khövsgöl landscapes, alternating between wet meadows and coniferous forests.

Along the way, a few gallops and trots through the forest punctuate the ride and strengthen the bond between you and your horse. It is also today that you discover your first ovoo, a pile of stones and wood erected in homage to the spirit of the mountains. As custom dictates, you will circle it three times on horseback, a gesture of respect deeply rooted in Mongolian culture.

In late afternoon, you reach Khelt, where your camp is set up near the shores of Lake Khövsgöl. The place invites relaxation and contemplation, as the evening light reflects off the calm waters of the lake.

At first light, you resume your journey on horseback and cross once again a marshy area, where walking and trotting dominate to preserve the pace of the horses and fully appreciate the landscapes of the Khövsgöl.

At midday, you take a lunch break near the waterfalls, located not far from the lake. These crystal-clear waters are renowned for their healing properties: according to tradition, drinking from them promotes the health of the eyes, stomach and kidneys. Before departing, you perform the ritual circumambulation of the ovoo, a symbol of respect and gratitude towards the protective spirits of the mountains.

You then continue your ascent towards the Jigleg pass, where you set up your camp for the night. The view from this point is often breathtaking, offering a panorama of the vast expanses of northern Mongolia and the surrounding forests.

This day on horseback promises to be peaceful and pleasant, between conifer forests and vast plains. The terrain, soft and open, lends itself perfectly to some gallops and trots in freedom, in a natural setting that seems straight out of a Mongolian postcard.

Throughout the journey, you enjoy the calm of the forest, sometimes punctuated by the song of the cuckoo, and perhaps you will spot a few sousliks, small rodents similar to prairie dogs, running between the tall grasses.

At the end of the day, you reach Eult, where you set up your camp for the night. A moment conducive to relaxation after a beautiful stage at the pace of Mongolian nature.

Your day begins with a horseback ride through the forest, where morning light filters through the larches. With a bit of luck, you will spot the herd of white horses that lives in these woods and may gallop for a moment alongside them, a rare and memorable experience in the heart of Mongolian nature.

Continuing your journey, you reach the great steppes of Renchinlkhumbe, an emblematic region in northern Mongolie. You then cross the village of Renchinlkhumbe, whose peaceful atmosphere reflects the traditional life of the steppe inhabitants. Not far away, a short stop allows you to admire a snow field, an icy remnant of the surrounding heights.

In the evening, settle into a ger camp* for a well-deserved night's rest. This stage marks the transition before your entry into the taiga, a wild and mysterious territory that awaits you from tomorrow onwards.

*if the camp was closed, the night would be spent under canvas.

This morning, you leave the vast steppe of Renchinlkhumbe to venture into the region of a Thousand Lakes, one of the natural jewels of northern Mongolie. Throughout the day, the landscapes succeed one another: golden plains, sparkling small lakes and distant mountains compose a picture of great serenity.

You then cross the Khar Us River aboard an authentic Mongolian "ferry boat", a picturesque and friendly experience. Then, the road continues towards a pass adorned with an ovoo, an altar of stones erected in homage to the spirit of the mountain. As tradition dictates, you circle it on horseback to ask protection and luck for your mounts.

In late afternoon, arrival at the great lake Tsagaan Nuur, a vast expanse of water with changing reflections where you set up your camp for the night. The calm of the place and the beauty of the landscape invite contemplation, in a typically Mongolian setting.

This day marks entry into the Mongolian taiga, a demanding yet fascinating stage of your horseback trek. The taiga forms a vast transitional zone between the boreal forest and the Arctic tundra, where low conifers, birches and shrubs intermingle. It is a wild, almost impenetrable environment that serves as a natural barrier protecting the camps of the Tsaatans, a nomadic reindeer herding people.

Progress becomes slower in this dense and humid nature, punctuated by marshes and inhabited by a multitude of insects, flies and mosquitoes — a difficult but authentic environment, symbol of the most pristine Mongolia.

In late afternoon, you reach the banks of the Moorog River, where you set up your camp for the night. The tranquility of the place and the freshness of the current offer well-deserved rest after an intense day in the heart of the taiga.

This stage takes you ever further to the north of the taiga, through mountainous and wild landscapes. You continue your ride towards the territory of the Tsaatans, also called Dukha, an emblematic nomadic people of northern Mongolie.

The Tsaatans live in tipis rather than yurts and depend entirely on traditional reindeer herding, a source of food, clothing and barter. Their community now numbers only about 44 families, or between 200 and 400 people. Their way of life, unchanged for centuries, remains deeply linked to shamanism and totemic rituals, pillars of their social and spiritual organization.

In early afternoon, the first tipis appear in the distance. The reindeer graze on lichens and mosses under a high mountain landscape, offering a striking and serene vision. You are warmly welcomed and share a cup of reindeer milk tea, a symbol of hospitality and cultural exchange, marking the beginning of a unique immersion in the daily life of this ancestral people.

You will spend two nights within the Tsaatan camp, lodging according to availability in a tipi or tent, for an authentic and respectful experience of their traditions.

After an unforgettable adventure in the land of the Tsaatans, it is time to find your mount again to begin the journey back. You leave the northern camps and resume your ride heading south, towards Tsagaannuur.

The day unfolds through the wild taiga, where coniferous forests, wetlands and sun-drenched clearings blend together. The pace of your journey allows you to fully savor the tranquility of Mongolian nature, in this region where life seems suspended in time.

In late afternoon, you reach the shores of Gants Uuliin Khar Nuur Lake, a peaceful place where you set up camp for the night. The whisper of the wind and the reflection of the mountains on the water offer a final evening of calm and contemplation, before returning to Tsagaannuur the next day.

This morning, you leave the taiga aboard a jeep heading south towards Mörön. The road winds through a diversity of striking landscapes: endless steppes, mountain passes and winding rivers punctuate this crossing of the Khövsgöl.

Along the way, you traverse a different landscape, composed of steppes, passes and rivers, inviting you to make a few stops to enjoy the atmosphere.

In the evening, near the fire and weather permitting, you can look up at the sky: in Mongolie, the Tenger reveals itself in all its purity, deep blue during the day and studded with stars once night falls.

Return route to Mörön airport, the provincial capital.

Then board your return flight to Ulan Bator.

Arrival in the city and check-in at your hotel, where you can rest for a few moments.

Rest of the day free. Accompanied by your guide, you explore the city shops to make your last purchases.