Ulaanbaatar doesn't always get the best reputation among foreign travelers, who understandably prefer to linger over the natural wonders of the steppe. Yet the patient traveler with time to spare will discover some truly beautiful sites in Mongolia's capital where it's a pleasure to wander. Here, then, is my ranking of my 10 favorite spots in Ulaanbaatar.

1. Gandantegchilen Monastery

Gandan Monastery is the most visited site in Mongolia's capital and a must-see for all travelers. The monastery is magnificent and enjoys a peaceful atmosphere in the heart of the city. Visitors will prefer a morning visit, between 9am and 11am, when monks gather to pray, though the site remains pleasant to visit at any time of day. I love going there in the late afternoon with my children to feed the pigeons. The raking light at that hour of the day gives the place an even more special character.

The alleyway leading to the monastery with all its prayer shops (incense, khadags, Buddhist statues...) as well as the yurt neighborhood on the monastery's immediate outskirts will beautifully complete the visit.

2. The 3rd and 4th Districts (Gurav Döröv dügeer khoroolol)

Directly northwest of the monastery lies a broad avenue with many shops. These are the 3rd and 4th districts. Few visitors venture into this part of the city, yet this popular neighborhood is full of charm and is above all worth a detour for its bustling energy. Many of the city's major brands first established themselves here, and its success has shaped development throughout the rest of the city.

You'll find the Urgoo cinema, the city's largest, the Gobi Sauna, which is favored by Mongols, as well as numerous affordable restaurants, karaoke bars, and clothing stores with bargain prices.

3. Baga Toiruu

Let's stay in the city center and focus on Baga Toiruu, the small circle surrounding Sukhbaatar Square. Ulaanbaatar has no pedestrian districts, and there are few places in the city where it's pleasant to walk. Baga Toiruu, with its wide sidewalks lined with poplars, stands as an exception. Throughout the promenade you'll find numerous restaurants offering cuisines from around the world: Mongolian specialties, Japanese, Korean, Turkish, Indian, Mexican, and Italian fare, all to the delight of food lovers happy to rediscover good meals after an adventure in the steppes.

Good news: whether it's the Dream Hotel or the Guide Hotel, with whom we work—both are located on the little circle!

4. Zaisan

Zaisan is the district located south of the city. Technically, it sits within the protected zone of Bogd Khan and construction is prohibited there. I remember during my first visit to Ulaanbaatar in 2003 that there were no buildings in this district, except for the Russian memorial, which required climbing many steps to enjoy the view it offers over the city. Today, Zaisan has become Ulaanbaatar's first residential zone and the capital's wealthy neighborhood. The view from the memorial hasn't changed, but the surroundings are now composed entirely of numerous condominiums. It remains nonetheless a pleasant place to visit, especially when you venture away from the residential areas into the mountains that dominate it to the south. There is notably a small yurt camp on the edge of the larch forest, on whose outskirts families come to picnic. On weekends, many hikers gather early in the morning to set out for walks in the mountains.

5. Naran Tuul Market

A radical change of scenery as we head to Ulaanbaatar's most popular spot: the famous Naran Tuul black market! Located about 5 km from downtown, to the east, on the road to Gorkhi Terelj National Park, the "thieves' market" is where Mongols know they can find everything at the best price. Whether it's food, furniture for the home or yurt, electronics, carpets, horse saddles, or clothing both traditional and imported directly from neighboring China, it's an immense bazaar that you'll venture into. Authentic local atmosphere guaranteed, but be warned—it's a Mongolian-style market, not designed to serve travelers' needs. You can find antiques here, but rarely more classic souvenirs as such.

The market is also unfortunately known for its pickpockets. Don't let that deter you from visiting, but it's prudent to leave your passport and credit card at the hotel and carry only the cash you intend to spend.

6. Nairamdal

Attention, I'm sharing with you here what may be the best-kept secret of Mongolia's capital residents. And even in the height of summer when strolls are most pleasant, you'll often encounter few people there. In the northwest of Ulaanbaatar lies the Nairamdal zone, meaning "friendship" in Mongolian. You'll first pass through an area of individual houses before finally arriving at the forest's edge. While most forested areas in Mongolie are covered with larch, here we find varied undergrowth where wild fruits and mushrooms abound.

By bike or on foot, it's a real pleasure to roam the trails of Nairamdal and picnic in the heart of the forest.

7. Khandraigt

Let's continue into the natural areas on Ulaanbaatar's outskirts, with the Khandraigt region. Located about 25 km north of Ulaanbaatar (straight from the central square), this region is adjacent to Gorkhi Terelj National Park. Along the way you'll cross numerous dachas where Mongols spend part of the summer away from the sometimes stifling heat of downtown. Here, the forest is composed of larch, but it's dense and actually quite little traveled once you venture away from the main road. Another beautiful destination for family weekends!

8. Children's Park

Southeast of the city, behind the Bayanmongol residence, a large park has been built that Mongolian families flock to as soon as the weather turns fair. You can understand why, as everything here is designed to entertain children. You can rent large radio-controlled cars that children can safely drive, bicycles, and tandems to explore the area.

This park should not be confused with the Children's Park south of Sukhbaatar Square, which is an amusement park with a Ferris wheel, roller coasters, and also a bowling alley. If you have children, a half-day in one of these two parks can keep them occupied. Prefer the first park for younger children, and the second if they're 7 years old or older.

9. Nükht

On the road to Ulaanbaatar lies the very beautiful Nükht Valley. You'll spot it on your right as you arrive in Mongolie and head to downtown. A beautiful wooded valley cutting into Bogd Khan, it is increasingly falling prey to developers. A small village has just been created from scratch there, and you'll find the Nukht Resort, a beautiful hotel with a swimming pool where it's pleasant to come for lunch before heading off on excursions in the surrounding area.

If you spend a day in the area, you'll also find Viva City on the banks of the Tuul River. Don't be put off by the residential buildings that don't look particularly appealing at first glance, because in the middle of the residential complex you'll feel like you're in a small village, complete with fountains, shops, and restaurants.

10. Genghis Khan Square, formerly Sukhbaatar

It's hard to talk about the most pleasant spots in Ulaanbaatar without of course mentioning its central square, which underwent a complete makeover in 2008 for the eight-hundredth anniversary of the creation of the Mongolian Empire. On summer evenings, this somewhat austere square transforms into a major gathering place for young and older Mongols alike. Bicycles and radio-controlled cars are also rented here. Concerts are sometimes organized, particularly during the Naadam festival, and it is generally a major gathering place in the capital.